REALLY, REALLLLY??
This will probably morph into a longer blog post at a later date but, honestly, i just needed to get this off my chest.  I've been traveling constantly now for a good *ahem* 20 years or so, and the absolute stupidity/arrogance of some of my fellow passengers never fails to amaze me.  Today, i got on the plane at SFO, bound for JFK and this hard-nut looking chap comes to sit next to me, and says we have the same seat assigned!  We are both assigned to seat 17E.  Well.   After much tutting and wondering how on earth United could possibly have let this happen (while both of us were secretly hoping to get upgraded to Business), it turns out he does have the correct seat assignment.  On a flight to Chicago.  Not to New York.  Can i hear a collective "DURRRR!!!!!", please?

Anyway, that wasn't the subject of my vent.  Can someone PLEASE explain to me why, especially as we are coming in to land, the moment the fasten seat belt sign comes on, some entitled douche bag gets up and starts fiddling about with the overhead bin.  Or has to go to the restroom.   Literally, our wheels are about to touch the ground and this a-hole suddenly decides he needs to visit the restroom!!!   And doesn't even have the courtesy to look embarrassed about it!  YOU'VE HAD FIVE HOURS, PEOPLE!!!  Why save it up for the last 5 frigging minutes??   The same thing happened when i was on my way to vacation, and we were about to land in Bangkok - the wheels were down, the flight attendants were seated, we were literally 3 minutes from landing and this guy goes to the loo!!   I don't know what is worse - the ignorance and oblivion of folk to common courtesy and due process (there are rules, dammit!) or that i get so damned annoyed by it.  Getting so annoyed is very, um, annoying.

If you ever start to feel sorry for yourself that you are single....
Then all you need to do is go to IKEA on a Sunday morning to witness the full spectrum of human misery and torment on coupledom display.  I went first thing, to avoid the maddening crowds, so - theoretically - everyone was still "fresh" in their day.  It made absolutely no difference.  Oh.  My. God.  Why are men even allowed into IKEA?  Its obvious - by the lack of single, unaccompanied men ANYWHERE in the entire store - that all men would rather watch Eat, Pray, Love than spend a single minute in there under their own volition.  I observed the full gamut of emotions from full-on raging arguments ("Don't stand there and say that i didn't say ONE positive thing the whole time we've been in here!  I'm tired and I'm in pain") to the on-the-edge ("It's FINE, whatever you want, I don't really care") to the abject despair ("......radio silence......"), reducing to trailing morosely behind their significant others and wondering when this hell on earth is ever going to end.  It was really quite uplifting.

The main reason for my visit was to finally get a full length floor standing mirror, so i could admire the pounds i gained back at the Uma Resort and then wave them goodbye again, courtesy of my faithful slacker tracker.  Mirror duly acquired, I - of course - succumbed to the siren lure of IKEA and stayed awhile in the Marketplace.  I cheerfully took my time in soft furnishings, throwing cushions that didn't match at all into my bright yellow bag in a devil-may-care manner.  I stayed awhile in the most baffling of sections for men, the scented candles and outdoor lanterns department, and also paid due diligence to photo frames and art, picking up some cool black frames for my pics from Bhutan.  I finished off my single shopping soiree with a quick flourish in Outdoor Furniture (a low black garden chair and a white metal bench) - and then proceeded to spend the next 30mins or so trying to figure out how to get it all in the car!!

I was obviously in some sort of nesting mode, because then it was off to Home Depot to get some plants to FINALLY get some life back into my little patio outside.  Without thinking too deeply about how i was going to get it all home (i'll figure something out), i ended up with 4 tall pink foxgloves, a lavender bush, some bedding plants, a large hanging basket of azaleas (i think) plus a trowel and a weeder thing.  They all looked fab and the tall foxgloves are absolutely perfect, sitting on top of the white metal bench, to give me some privacy behind their floral hedginess.  I wont bore you with all the mathematical permutations of how i managed to get all that lot in around the humungous mirror and assorted odds and sods, but i did (albeit with *ahem* somewhat reduced rear visibility on the drive back home) and proceeded to spent a couple of hours replanting, rearranging and generally feeling very proud of my own creativity.  It actually looks great - a little bit of an English garden, right next to AT&T Ballpark.  I'd better take a lot of pictures tomorrow, before I forget to water it cos its probably never going to look this good again!!

Home, sweet home
So its my first weekend spent at home for probably close to two months.  The jetlag has taken me far longer to shake off than i expected and today is actually the first day since i got back that i haven't felt compelled to sleep in the afternoon!  Pretty much every day, i've been crashing out around 4pm and waking up, drooling and with a stiff neck from the sofa, at around 9pm.  Probably inevitable and understandable, but my productivity at work during my first week back has taken an absolute pounding.  Lots of things starting to stack up as a result but it'll all get done in the end.



Other than a Mission district walking foodie tour that didnt happen (grrr), i had absolutely no plans at all for the weekend.  I'd had quite a busy week back (despite the jetlag) with the HBA stuff starting to kick off, so i was looking forward to a weekend of chilling out and enjoying being back in my wonderful apartment.  Saturday the weather was pretty nice, so i took a stroll down to the Embarcadero and finally made my first proper visit to the Farmer's Market.  I only had $10 in my wallet and couldnt be arsed to queue at the ATM (loooooong line) to get more money out, so not much shopping for me, other than to carefully select which food truck i was going to pick for lunch.  After much deliberation, i decided on the Prather Ranch truck and a delicious sounding pulled pork sandwich with coleslaw. Sounded yummy, in reality, very disappointing.  Rather than being the unctuous sticky sweet BBQ porky goodness i was anticipating, it was basically a gammon steak thing, a single piece of meat, rather than the tangle of porcine pleasure i was looking forward to.  Very disappointing.  To stave off my dismay, i ended up getting a rather nice tub of coconut and blueberry sorbet instead (I was only going to have one scoop, but i was paying with a card, so paying for just one scoop with plastic felt too lame so i had to go for two instead!!).


I strolled back along the Embarcadero, enjoying the sunshine and the sheer joy of being back in San Francisco and knowing that I bloody well live here.  I stopped off at my favorite little bookstore and cafe, Crossroads, and had a cup of jasmine tea, outside in the little garden, while reading a book i'd just bought inside called The Psychopath Test.  Absolutely fascinating, very easy to read and - who knows - perhaps i might learn something that will help me at work.

Back at the apartment, i continued with my reading and - on cue - promptly fell asleep mid-afternoon.  i woke up around 8pm, ate some chocolate (oops), watched a couple episodes of the Mentalist before calling it a night and heading off to bed around midnight.

All in all, a perfectly acceptable Saturday back in SF.

Top memories of Bhutan
So I've been back exactly a week now.   Long enough to miss the simplicity of the country and the gentleness of day to day living.  It was such a spectacular 10 days that its impossible to rank my memories into a top ten - here are just a few that have risen to the top over the last few days.

Drinking Dom Perignon on the terrace of the Taj Tashi to celebrate my 40h birthday
The hand-painted signs, especially the road signs, gently advising caution on the roads
The flower filled traditional hot stone bath
That classic shot of Tiger's Nest, with the prayer flags stretching out across the chasm
The incredible views, the mountains, valleys, rice paddies
The landing!!
The museum at Ta Dzong
The feeling of being privileged enough to be getting a private tour of the country and the only tourist in the place
The blinged-out trucks
The smell of the country, an ever-present scent of pine and incense
Receiving my first blessing, with the monk pouring the holy water into my cupped hands for me to sip
Spotting a real live hoopoo in the wild
The yogurt for breakfast at the Uma Resort
Sneaking into the back of the monk's classroom while they were having "lessons" to watch and listen
Not being bombarded with ads everywhere you turn
The chili-cheese

Top Road Signs of Bhtuan
We saw a lot of these types of signs particularly on the main thoroughfare between the capital, Thimpu and Paro (where the airport is located more westward).  I find these signs utterly charming in the polite urgency to do the right thing when driving and to respect your fellow Bhutanese road-users (that includes cows, dogs, dragons, horses, birds and chickens).   The fact the vast majority of them are all hand painted once again reveals the utter lack of sophistication in this country (meant in the best possible way).  The homespun nature to almost everything here is disarmingly charming and invokes an weird combination of responses - a sense of protectiveness, nostalgia, bemusement and fondness.  Here are a few of my favorites....

And if there's no vacancy above, then......

Somewhat harsh penalties for lighting up..... even for foreigners

Absolutely no comment as to what's on sale here....

Freaking inspired.  I want one.

Maybe it was the Fooding that gave me the unwanted Gastric Gutwash

Right ON!

Go Bhutan - PSA old-style

Unless they happen to be a cheating so-and-so who gets you infected...

Driving in Bhutan is not for anxious or neurotic people

Road safety sign, presumably sponsored by the local drug cartel

OK - will do, am on it.

Can you imagine this sign on the NJ Turnpike?

Not even my guide had the first idea what this sign meant....

Danger.  Buglers or clowns ahead

Warning. Large Dead Caterpillars in Road.

Classic Bins of Bhutan
The following photo montage is in honour of my sister, who once spent an entire family vacation in Italy obsessively taking photographs of fire extinguishers.  To this day, no-one truly understands the reasons why and it is one of those topics that's very rarely aired.....  Loopy - this one is for you.  

Day 13: Phase III Operation Reverse GlobeTrot COMPLETE

Tokyo – San Francisco

So, finally, I am home.  The flight over from Tokyo to San Francisco was just over 9 hrs but it didn’t seem that long at all.  For once, I had a very entertaining travel mate, a Brit called Richard, who was in the international toys business (freshly-married and very in love with his wife, so settle down) so we chatted for a good couple of hours at the beginning of the flight.   He then went to sleep (his seat wasn’t reclining and I had no intention of trying to sleep (no Ambien) so I gave him mine instead) and I watched back to back trashy movies and drank champagne and wine.  Perfecto.  The flight was smooth, the food was reasonable so it was a very pleasant flight and, all too sudden, it was over and we were touching down in SF.  Because of the time difference, despite having travelled for most part of a day already, it was only 9.30am!  Immigration was a breeze (although I’m having trouble now finding my green card, so hope that turns up!!) and my bags duly arrived, intact, so all that was left to do was hop in a cab, and head home.  What an amazing, amazing experience and kick-ass way to enter my 4^th decade!!  BRING IT ON!!!!

Day 13: Phase II Operation Reverse GlobeTrot

Bangkok - Tokyo

So up and off to the airport – no problems checking in this time and, as it was ridiculously early, there were no lines at security or the immigration point, so that was good.  All the stores in the airport were closed and I guess 3.30am is when everyone does all their cashing out and paperwork from the previous day’s take, as all the store employees were sitting in their stores, heads bent over calculators and reams of paper.  It was then that one of the other aspects of having been in Bhutan hit me too – the complete absence of the consumerism and label-driven culture that was suddenly confronted with, with rows upon rows of high-end stores in the airport.  In Bhutan, they truly live by their mantra that “Happiness is a Place” and don’t look to external objects or possessions to bring them joy.  I envy them that, and maybe if even a little bit of that mindset rubs off on me, then this trip will continue to enrich my life, long after it’s over.

In a somewhat contemplative mood, I headed off to the Thai Airlines lounge – not an easy task as it was hidden on a different floor to the one I’d be wandering up and down looking for it on.  Again, it was pretty quiet due to the early hour, so I pretty much had the run of the coffee machine and the sandwich selection all to myself (white bread cheese sandwiches – mmMMmmm).  Avoided the steamed buns – just too damned early to risk eating something I can’t actually see. 

After about an hour, it was time to wander off to the gate.  Clearing the final bit of United security, I had to stand on a little box and get frisked.  Not entirely sure how being 4 inches off the ground enhances security but there you are.  It made for a slightly more exciting screening that the usual.

Back in business class (its amazing how quickly you can get re-used to it again!) and as I was settling in, an older lady came up to ask me if I would mind moving to her seat so that she could sit with her friend.  I actually preferred my original seat, but it seemed like the nice thing to do and I’d feel like such a tool to say no (plus I’d then have to sit next to her friend, feeling like a tool, for the next 6hrs).  So, from 9J to 13B I went.   Which is where I am now.  I’ve just realized I left my Ambien in my checked baggage, so no sleep on this flight for me!  So, nothing left to do but be a complete lush and accept the free glass of complementary champagne – despite it only being 5.30am (its traditional, what can I say?) and, as United always urge, to sit back, relax and enjoy the flight.  SF – I’m on my way home.

Day 12: Operation Reverse GlobeTrot – Phase I complete
Paro - Bangkok

I’ve decided that DrukAir rocks.  Rather than being the dodgefest airline you’d probably imagine (Druk-wha?), I think it could teach United a thing or two.  As I think I mentioned in a previous blog, the flight attendants all look super smart in their traditional silk garb and, even in economy, there was a decent amount of leg room.  Even better – you get fed!!  Free of charge!!  On the little 40min hop to Bangladesh (this time to a Bagsomewhererandom), we got little freshener towels, some apple juice and peanuts, then on the remaining 2.5hr flight to Bangkok, a hot meal of chicken with noodles which was actually pretty decent!  As with everything in Bhutan, it came with the requisite accompanying pot of chili paste which, of course, I had to try.  Also, UNITED TAKE NOTE – if DrukAir can still give you complementary wine with your meal (a surprisingly good red Cabernet Sauvignon) why do you have to charge me $6 a pop??  The flight itself was good, if a little bumpy in places, but we got to Bangkok without incident, only slightly delayed because of the monsoon weather.

OK, so indulge me here while I go off on a bit of a rantfest.  Now, as the intrepid global traveler I am, I appreciate the value of a good rucksack.  My trusty Camelback has accompanied me around the world and has seen my through many miles of hikes and many adventures.  So what is it with people and their backpacks on public transport (planes, buses, the subway etc) where they promptly double strap it to their back and then seem to promptly forget they are wearing it and thus have no concept of the carnage they leave in their wake as they bash into things, turn round and whack you in the face with it and generally have NO spatial awareness whatsoever.  Keep it on a single-strap, people, so you can move it around and avoid twatting your neighbor in the face or knocking everything in your path over. As mentioned before, mine was absolutely stuffed to the gills with the heaviest items I could get away with that would fit in.  Contained within was a veritable cornucopia of local Bhutanese handicrafts including a yak bell, 2 iron door handles in the shape of a fish, 2 aromatherapy oil burners, a large antique lock and key, some prayer flags and several packets of incense.   It was veeeeeery heavy.  Despite that, though, I resolutely single strapped it, out of consideration for my fellow travelers – and was rewarded with an absolutely interminable bus ride from the place to the international arrivals hall for my trouble.  Given my handbag probably also weighed at least 15lbs due to the computer, iPad, several books and camera inside,  it wasn’t long before I was starting to lose the feeling in both my right arm and my left shoulder.

Finally though we got to the terminal, and I made it through immigration with no problems and with no wait.  Perfect.  Both bags turned up intact (yep – the green one still made it OK) so off I headed to the Novotel again, for my brief stay before my 6am flight tomorrow.  I was, obviously, in a far better mood this time than the last time I was here – that feels sooooo long ago.  The hotel is actually quite nice and there are whole sections of it I didn’t notice in my abject misery and raging despair last time.  Like the really nice rooftop pool and bar that it probably would have been a good idea to chill out in last time, rather than my forlorn and ultimately fruitless schlep into town!!   I swear they’ve had an extra 3 more restaurants installed since last Tuesday – rather than eating in the crappy “International” Lobby restaurant whose breakfast with extra floppy toast I endured the last time, there now appear to be a myriad of other choices, including Thai, Chinese and Japanese.  

So its off to the Japanese restaurant for me now, for a quick bite to eat before just a couple of hours sleep before getting up at 3am, ready for my 6am flight to Tokyo.  Am on my way.....

Day 12

Paro – Bangkok

Oh no!!  Its departure day and time to leave this beautiful country.  I started the day off with my Signature Breakfast – the best yogurt in the world followed by the delicious ricotta pancakes.  My poor old slacker tracker is going to have its work cut out when I get back on the scales on Monday.  As Mum would urge, though, I have enjoyed every last delicious and expensive mouthful!  After my breakfast of champions and a fond farewell to the incredible view out of the dining room window, it was time to finish up my last bits of packing, ready to meet Michael at 8.30am.  I’d tried to cram as much of my heavier souvenir items as possible into my rucksack and hand luggage, to try and keep the weight of my checked bags down.  My luggage allowance is a skimpy 20kg (tried to upgrade to business class for an extra $80, but they were full) so every additional kg would be 185 Nu (about $4).  I already had to pay an extra $100 on the way out (yeah, I know – travelling light etc etc) but at least this time I was well prepared with plenty of local currency, so I could pay the excess with no problems.

So finally, it was time to check out and head to the airport.  What with the wine, the massage and a couple of purchases in the gift shop, I’d managed to rack up quite a bill in the 2 days I was there!  Ah well, like the diet, there’ll be plenty of time for economy when I get home!

We got to the airport extra early so that I could bag a window seat on the right hand side of the plane to hopefully get the same spectacular views of the Himalaya’s as I got coming in.  It was then time to bid a fond farewell to Michael, my trusty guide – I thanked him wholeheartedly for a phenomenal trip and gave him a very nice tip for being such a fantastic driver and not killing me on the crazy Bhutanese roads.  I told him my Mum was very grateful.  Then it was off through into the airport, sending the bags through the scanner first, before then checking in at the desk.  Of course, this trip wouldn’t be complete without a little scare to get the adrenaline flowing right at the end – as I was checking in my two bags, the counter lady started saying that my luggage allowance was 20kg and that I had 22kg extra weight.  I said, ruefully, yes, I know – lots of souvenir shopping – but that I was more than happy to pay the extra.  Now, I’m not sure what the disconnect was, but for the next few moments, she started going on that I was only allowed an extra 15kg in extra weight and that I had 22kg.  What?  There’s an upper limit???  No-one had mentioned this before, not on the way out – did she mean I had to “lose” 7kg in weight???  How would that be possible?  I can’t just leave a bag behind!!  I certainly can’t fit any more into my hand luggage.  Am I going to have to buy an extra ticket just so I can get my souvenirs home????   All of these thoughts flashed through my mnd, my heart started pounding as I pleaded with the lady to let me take on my second bag and that I was more than happy to pay.  As it turned out, she was saying that the maximum she could charge me for was 15kg (don’t ask me why) so in the end, that’s what happened – I scuttled over to the cash counter, paid for the 15kg (before she changed her mind) and happily all ended well.  Ah – other than the extra note they had from my trip over that I still have the $50 change fee to pay – which I’d already paid on the way out, when I had to change my flight due to the Visa Debacle.  I explained I’d already paid and they were fine with that, but that was another teeny weeny heart-stopper, just to keep things interesting.

Anyway, FINALLY, I was through immigration and into the pre-departure lounge.  As a result of my unexpected excess weight cost savings, I had a reasonable amount of local currency left, so it was time for just a final last bit of shopping!  I bought a book on Bhutanese food (in case I ever get the desire to recreate the chili and cheese experiences) and a couple of lovely sketch books with pictures of all the Dzongs I’ve visited – one for me and one for Loopy.  Then through a final security check into the main departure lounge and more shops – this time, I found a beautiful ancient silk throw that (apparently – I chose to believe her) is 100 years old.  Its incredibly heavy, is woven in a beautiful traditional pattern that I’ve been seeing everywhere so I fell in love with it.  As expected, it wasn’t cheap - $360 USD and I didn’t have enough money but the lady said I could go back out through security to the ATM.  A bit of a hassle, but OK – it was worth the effort.  Unfortunately, as I made to go back through security, the lady guard said no, so back to the counter I went to report the sad news.  I then opened up my wallet to see just how much cash I could rustle up – with a combination of USD, Thai Baht and Bhutanese Nu, I only came up with just over $300 USD.  Not enough.  But then the lady said that because I loved it so much, I could have it for that!!  So kind of her and VERY unusual to give such a deep discount – the custom here is not to barter – basically, the price you see is the price you pay, even though you know it’s a huge mark up because you are a tourist.  So, that was very nice of her and so I’m now sitting in Paro airport departure lounge, with not a single penny of cash on me, waiting to board for my flight to Bangkok and reflecting on what has been a truly magical incomparable experience.

Day 12: Bhutan, what can I say?  You’ve been amazing, incredible and I love you.  I will always remember you with a smile and thank you for all the amazing experiences – its been far, far more than I ever could have imagined.  Thank you.

Day 11

At large in Paro

After yesterday’s exertions, today was a more low key day for my last full day in Bhutan.  Again, I was up by about 7.30am in time for another phenomenal breakfast – the yogurt I’d been dreaming of since my very first night at Uma followed by some very tasty poached eggs on English muffins with hollandaise sauce and smoked salmon (intolerances, be damned!).  It was absolutely delicious, so very stuffed and happy, I met up with Michael at 9am for our last day of sightseeing, a drive to the Chelela Pass and Haa valley.

Chelela Pass and Haa Valley

Here’s what my itinerary says about the Haa Valley:

Post breakfast you will be driven to Haa Valley (Chelela pass)

The pristine and picturesque Haa valley is located about 3 hours west of Paro. The Drive from Paro to Haa valley takes you up to the Chele-La pass which is located at a height of about 3800 meters. Make sure you ask you drive to stop the car here so you can enjoy a beautiful view of Bhutan’s 2 highest and best known peaks the Jichu Drake and Mount Jumolhari, some times of a clear day you might be able to catch a glimpse of Mount Kunchenchunga the 3rd highest mountain in the world from this view point. From there we will descend down into the Haa Valley down to the town of Ha.

The Haa valley till recently was closed off for tourists and even today people of the valley live in a manner not very dissimilar from a time long ago. The Haa valley is one of the most isolated and least populous districts of the country. The Haa valley is also home to an Indian army base that helps protect the border of Bhutan from Chinese incursions. There are many small temples and monasteries in the district with the most important being the Lhakhang Karpo( White Temple) and the Lhakhang Nagpo ( Black Temple). The Lhakahng Nagpo’s central shine is said to be identical to the central shrine of the Jowo Temple in Lhasa, Tibet. Legend has it that the Karpo temple was constructed along with the assistance of the Local deities, as a result of this divine intervention they started to be known as the Hay (Surprises in Dzhongkha) and later on Haa. After spending the day in the valley we will return back to Paro for the night since there are no hotels of note in the valley.

The drive from Paro to the Chelela pass took about an hour and a half.  The roads were actually pretty decent – still twisty and turny, but at least tarmacked, so less crazy bumpy than the ones in Bumthan and between Trongsa and Thimphu.  The scenery was nice but after a while climbing up from the valley, it was all forest with not a huge amount to see.  One thing we did see, though, for a fleeting two, maybe three, seconds was a black bear!!!  We caught a glimpse of him lumbering across the road about 50 metres ahead of us, before he disappeared into the forest, out of sight!  What a thrill – all the time I spent in the Canadian Rockies where there are supposed to be bears-aplenty, I saw bugger all but here – I saw my first real live bear!!  Unfortunately it was over and the bear was gone before I’d managed to get a picture, but that didn’t really matter.  However, honestly, that was the most exciting thing that happened in the whole 3 hour excursion to the pass – we finally made it to the top, ostensibly to enjoy the amazing views of Paro and Haa Valley to see…. nothing!!    Nothing but a thick, impenetrable bank of thick white cloud that enveloped the mountain top!!  Ah well.

After our exciting trip to see clouds, it was time for lunch, this time in a little place in Paro town.  The food was pretty good (again, better than Taj but not as good as Uma!) and I took a gastic gamble with some chicken drumstick things.  My guts had seemed to have recovered from their little spat, so I thought I’d chance those, but maybe avoid the chili cheese for today….

After lunch, it was time for a bit more shopping in Paro town.  As a result of my heroic efforts of the last couple days, I didn’t actually have that much left that I either wanted to buy or could actually afford.   But I did pick up a couple of bits – a dohje and one of those offering thingys that I’d seen loads of by the side of the road but cant remember their name!!

We were back at the hotel by 2.30pm, so I had a couple of hours to relax, chill out and start to think (sadly) about packing before my archery lesson!  It was in the grounds of the resort with the old fashioned bamboo style bow and arrows and – though I’m no Katniss Everdeen and would be toast in the Hunger Games, I’m very proud to report I didn’t completely suck!!  My first ever go at archery and I got pretty bloody close to the target.  From 70 metres away, one shot only missed the target by a foot!!   Whoo-hoo!!  (of course, that was balanced out by plenty of shots that were short, wide and/or hit the tree, but even still!!).

After all that exertion and that of the hike the day before, there was nothing left to do with my last evening in in Bhutan than to surrender to the outrageous luxuriousness of a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath and massage.  OMG.  It was amazing.  The bath house was a couple minutes walk out into the grounds of the hotel, in its own separate little space, and walking into the little bath house (which was all mine!), it was beautiful.  There was a stunning view of the glorious Paro Valley out of the

panoramic view windows and the wooden bath was completely covered with vibrant flowers floating on the surface.  The therapist added some salts to the bath and explained that, if I wanted the water hotter, all I needed to do was strike the metal singing bowl (*DING!*) and a white hot stone would appear through the little wooden hatch, and be dropped into the water to then radiate its heat throughout the whole bath.  It was perfect.  Even though the bath was already pretty warm, of course I had to have a go with striking the bowl and taking some pics of the hot stones being fed through the hatch – made the water pretty bloody hot in the end, though so, despite having a full 30mins to relax in my own private bath, I think I was out and sipping ginger tea after only about 20mins.

Then the therapist came back in and gave me a fantastic – if ouchworthy – massage.  Again, it was all elbows and crunching of muscle knots but hopefully its all doing me good and helping undo all those hours of being hunched over a computer screen.  A nice touch this time was the bowl of flowers placed directly under the massage donut thing you rest your face on, when you’re face down – why don’t all places do that?

After a phenomenal hot stone bath experience, all I had left to do to complete a glorious final evening in Bhutan was to go and stuff my face with some incredible food again, courtesy of the prodigiously talented chef at the Uma.   Today’s feast started, as always, with a fantastic bread basket with some particularly yummy indian bread.  Slathered with melted butter, it became absolutely divine when sprinked with some sea salt crystals (from England, as it happens!) so I had to have a couple of helpings of that!!  I washed it down with a perfectly chilled glass of Graves Reserve Ciron, Bordeuax 2007 – the same wine I’d enjoyed so much the night before.

For my appetizer, I had this absolutely transcendent dish of smoked trout, goats cheese, gherkins, rocket and dill.  I was so delicious, I pretty much inhaled rather than ate it and I think I remember actually doing a happy dance about half way through it, it was that good.  Then I opted for the chicken with puy lentils and pancetta – again, totally delicious, especially paired with the Taltarni Syrah Pyrenees Victoria 2005 (Amber’s choice).   For dessert, I was in Amber’s capable hands again, so enjoyed a yummy Lemongrass sorbet, steeped in vodka and drizzled with a little Cointreau.  I didn’t finish all the vodka or Cointreau as I had half a mind on the fact I still had to finish my packing.  But, finally, all the food was gone and it was time to call it a night, so I thanked Amber for an absolutely unforgettable experience.   Honestly, I love everything about this hotel – the atmosphere, the food, the service, the smell, the food, the little nooks and crannies where you can find solitude and peace, the incredibly spicy yet delicious ginger tea, the jaw-dropping and completely captivating view from the restaurant, the BEST YOGURT I’VE EVER TASTED, and how you feel that everyone genuinely cares whether you are happy and satisfied and isn’t just pretending because its their job.  I even love the way my washing came back to me – like everything about this place, it was stylish and adorable, with my pants wrapped in tissue paper and presented in a bamboo box!  I cant think of a better place to wrap up my once in a lifetime trip to Bhutan.

Day 11: Bhutan, you may have my heart but it’s the Uma Resort that I have fallen in love with.