Day 6: Bumthang to
Gangtey
Today was a fairly low key day today, with only a couple of
things to see and a lot of driving. We
left the Guest House around 8am (with the chatty owner again foiling my plans
to get some quick blogging done at breakfast time!) and took a short drive over
to Burning Lake. As well as being very spiritually
meaningful , the Burning Lake also gained some notoriety last year when an
Indian tourist fell into the lake while taking pictures and drowned. Despite its tranquil appearance, the lake
hides some vicious currents that will pull you under the water – I made sure to
keep well back from the edge of the rocks when taking my photos – though it
would make for a perfectly poignant, made-for-TV Lifetime movie, I’d rather
make it to 40yrs old than drown in a tragic, gone-before-her-time accident.
Burning Lake
Here’s what my itinerary says about Burning Lake:
The Burning Lake or the Membar tsho is a deep water pool in
a gorge of the Tangchu River. The Burning Lake is located about 15 minutes off
the road that goes towards the Tang Valley of Bumthang. The place enjoys a very
special spiritual significance for the people of Bhutan. One of the most
striking feature of the location is the huge number of colorful prayer flags
that hang everywhere along the river gorge. As you trek down to the pool be
warned that it is considered sacrilegious to enter the water body due to its
holiness.
According to legend Trenton Pema Lingpa, a disciple of Guru
Rinpoche had a vision of a great treasure that lay at the bottom of the lake.
Upon the declaration of his intent to go and recover this treasure from the
pools bottom the Trenton was challenged that by the local governor about the
presence of a treasure. He said to the governor if his vision were he would
enter the pool with a lit butter lamp and only return when he had found the
treasure, and with the lamp still lit. He is believed to have spent a long time
looking for the treasure underwater, but when he emerged back out of the water
he came out with the treasure and the butter lamp still burning hence giving
the lake its name.
After Burning Lake and not drowning, it was time to get in
the car for the 4hr drive back the way we’d came (there is only one road in
Bhutan, so its impossible to get lost), past Trongsa, through the Pele La pass
and heading towards Thimphu. We stopped
at the same place for lunch as we had on the way in (food wasn’t great again)
and then back in the car again for another 2hr drive to finally arrive in
Gangtey. We made a couple of stops along
the way, one to have a quick look round a handicraft shop, the other to watch
another archery contest – this one using the modern metal bows. I got the distinct impression Michael was
trying to fill the time – once at Gangtey, there was only the monastery to look
at and then we were done for the day.
Gangtey Monastery
Here’s what my itinerary says about the monastery:
The Gangtey Monastery or the Gangtey Goempa is an important
monastery / temple associate with the Nyingmapa school of Buddhism. The
Monastery is Located in the Wandue Phodrang Dzhongkhag in central Bhutan. The
Gangtey Monastery is situated in the picturesque Phobjikha Valley, which is
also renowned for being the winter home of the rare Tibetan Black Necked
Cranes. The monastery was established in 1613 by Peling Gyalse Rinpoche, the
grandson of Trenton Pema Lingpa the great treasurer discoverer. According to a
story during a visit to the Phobjikha Valley, Trenton Pema Lingpa foretold the
people that one day his descendants will construct a monastery on the hills
surrounding the valley and make it the seat of the Peling Tradition. The
present ruling dynasty of Bhutan is descendant of the great Trenton Pema
Lingpa.
The monastery is a complex of five temples that surround a
main central tower. The main hall of the monastery is built in Tibetan style
architecture and is made completely out of wood with its 8 main wooden pillars
considered to be the largest in Bhutan. Between 2002 and 2008 the monastery
underwent a complete renovation / restoration. The monastery was consecrated by
the present day reincarnation of the Pema Lingpa in October 2008. The monastery
has a very close connection to the royal family of Bhutan.
The monastery was very nice, as you’d expect, and again, we
were the only people there. The
caretaker, an ancient man with only 2 teeth but a friendly (if gappy) smile,
kindly came and let us in to the inner temple, so we could have a look at Mr.B
and friends. He also offered us some
holy water – I’ve become a bit of a holy water conneseuier over the last
week. This one was definitely more
refreshing with a lighter body and more citrus notes than the orange vintage
from yesterday. I’ve chugged back so
much holy water recently, I should imagine my insides are gleaming with
virtue.
Anyway, after the monastery was done, it was about 3.30pm
and time to check into the Dewachen Hotel.
Lovely. My room has an insanely
gorgeous view of the Phobjikha Valley spread out below. Unfortunately, I’m here at the wrong time of
year to see the Black Necked Cranes cos they’ve all buggered off to Tibet for
the summer. Here’s what my itinerary
says about the Phobjikha Valley:
Phobjikha valley
The Phobjikha is a wide glacial valley located in close to
the Gangtey Monastery. The Phobjikha valley is the winter home of the rare
Black Necked Cranes that migrate from Tibet from the arid plains of Tibet to
roost in the more comfortable climate of the Phobjikha Valley. The valley is at
an altitude of 2900 meters above sea level and experiences a much lighter
winter as compared to the harsh extremes of Tibet. A part of the valley lies in
the Black Mountain National Park. There are 2 rivers that flow through this
valley called the Nakay Chu and the Gay Chu. According to legend it is said
that the rivers represent a serpent and a boar.
Once upon a time there was a race between the two to
determine whether people can grow rice in the valley or not, if the serpent won
then the people of the valley could grow rice but if the boar won, then rice
could never be cultivated in the area. Eventually the serpent lost and to this
date rice is not grown in the Phobjikha Valley. While visiting the Phobjikha
Valley one must take time out to visit the Black Necked Crane Information
Centre, the centre is located at the edge of the main forest are along the road
and can be easily accessed. The centre has an observation deck that is equipped
with a high power telescope that gives visitors a chance to spot some cranes.
The Information Center has a display that offers an insight in to the natural
and cultural history of the valley.
So, that’s it for today.
As we speak, I’ve had supper and am in bed, under a richly patterned yak
wool blanket, blogging and editing pics and occasionally remembering that
tomorrow I turn 40!! People don’t
celebrate birthdays here, so the few people I’ve told the reason why I’m here
and that it’s a significant occasion don’t really get the meaning. So it’s a bit odd, really – from late
thirties onwards, you start to think about turning 40 and what (if anything)
that means. I shall be turning 40 tomorrow
with very little fanfare and fuss and I think I’m OK with that. I shall start my birthday waking up here in
Gangtey, with the glorious view that’s picture-perfectly designed for just the
right amount of introspection, and then finish off the day at the magnificent
Tashi Taj where a large glass of chilled champagne awaits in celebration. Yey, me!
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