Day 4: Trongsa - Bumthang

Yes, so today’s fun involves a drive to the place with a funny name.

The day started off with an encounter with a haunted kettle – its standard here, even in the most basic hotel rooms, to have a kettle and the stuff you need to make tea & coffee – AMERICA TAKE NOTE!!  There was no telly in my room but I could have a cuppa anytime I liked – again, a sure sign of a country with its priorities truly in the right order!  Disconcertingly, the kettle kept turning itself on and – though I tried to keep up with it and drink as much tea as it seemed to want me too – even I had to admit defeat (had half a mind on the bumpy roads) and eventually unplug the little blighter to foil its plans for caffeine-induced world domination.   It was also very rainy with the clouds swathing the mountains – all making for some very atmospheric pictures of the Trongsa Dzong emerging from the mists.  Lovely.  Sam would be so proud.

After a nice – but probably not very locally authentic – breakfast of oatmeal, eggs and toast, accompanied by the chimes of the spinning water prayer wheel in the garden - it was time to head up to the Ta Dzong, the watchtower which is now a museum, housing many precious artifacts from the Trongsa Dzong. 

Again, words fail me to describe the beauty and magnificence of all the treasures and incredible history housed within the Ta Dzong.  This stuff is SERIOUSLY OLD and in seriously great nick.  And right there!!!  Maybe 10% of the stuff on display was in a case or behind glass – everything else, I could just reach out and touch (but I obviously didn’t!).  Its at times like this I wish I had a better memory, so I could walk you through the various rooms and levels – but I don’t.  Sorry.   What I do recall again are amazing golden statues and carvings of the Buddha and his mates, various articles of clothing and adornments from the time of the Guru Rinpoche (the second Buddha) through to the current King, swords and weapons, embellished jewel encrusted silver boxes to store betelnut and lime, the King’s arrow quiver and radio, boxes and boxes of ancient scriptures, intricately woven ghos and one of the previous King’s Raven Crown, signifying the strength and power of the monarchy and still worn today.   It was all incredibly well done – the signs next to each exhibit were very informative and again, I was the only person in the whole place!!  As we went round the exhibits, we were spiraling upwards, until we finally emerged onto the top of the Ta, where the views of the valley below were absolutely incredible.   Unfortunately, I didn’t have my camera as I had to check it on entering the Ta Dzong but they were so spectacular – I could have stood there for hours drinking it all in.

Luckily for my guide, I restrained myself so after a few more minutes, we wound our way back down to the bottom of the building, and set off for the 2.5hr drive to Bumthang.

Yes.  I know.  Cue music and all sing together “We’ve got a Bumthang, a Bumthang”.  I’m not even sure what song that is replacing now, but I know its from the 70’s, involves wide collars and improbably patterned polyester shirts.  Dad would know.

The drive to Bumthang was not quite as bonkers, road-wise, as the drive yesterday.  The scenery was as breathtaking as I’ve come to expect – high up on the mountains, overlooking the lush green Bumthang valley.  Absolutely stunning.   It was all very atmospheric and a bit spooky at times, with the tall pine and cypress trees swathed in thick cloaks of mist.  After about an hour and a half, we reached the top of the mountain and went through another pass, Yongda La, with its Bhutanese style chorten and also laden with prayer flags.  From there, it was (obviously) downhill to Bumthang valley, passing a few yaks on the roadside along the way!

We got to the guest house around lunchtime – staying at the family run Keila Guest House.  The courtyard is magnificent, ringed on three sides by the two stories of the hotel and the balconies wrapping round them.  My room is again basic, but clean and spacious – plus it has an iron stove in it that – according to my Lonely Planet Guide book – they will light for you if you get cold.  Either that or just switch on the wall heater that’s by my bed.

After an absolutely DELICIOUS lunch (Indian style with rice, curry, a yummy salad, some dahl and the ubiquitous chili cheese), it was time to do a bit more sightseeing.  Two things on the itinerary for this afternoon – first up, the Kurjey Lhakhang followed by the Jambey Lhakhang. 

Both were stunning, but the Kurjey Lhakhang was especially memorable – as we visited one of the shrines inside, the monks were also inside at prayer.  Looking at these beautiful golden statues and works of art is impressive enough, but to do so accompanied by the sounds of the monks chanting, a monotone incantation that sounded both urgent and spacious, with the heavy smell of incense hanging in the air made it an almost overwhelming sensory experience.   In one of the other temples, more statues and this time, I received a blessing, holy water poured into my cupped hands that you first sip, then wet the top of your head with the rest.  Yet another singular experience to add to the rapidly expanding list!  Here’s what my itinerary says about the two places I visited this afternoon:

Kurjey Lhakhang

The Kurjey Lhakhang is a monastery located in the Bumthang Valley of Bhutan. The Kurjey Lakahng Temple Complex is a 30 minute hike from the Jambay Lhakhang temple. According to legend Sendhu Raja, the King of Bumthang was very ill and invited Guru Rinpoche the founder of Buddhism in Bhutan to give him a cure for his ailment.

Upon his investigation the Guru Rinpoche discovered that the illness was caused by the malevolent local deities including the Sheling Karpo. Upon finding out that these deities were responsible; the angry Guru chased them in to a cave. Guru Rinpoche then sat there and meditated for three months, upon waking up he subdued the deities and cured the thankful King of his ills. The guru left an imprint of his body in the cave to serve as a reminder to all evil beings of his wrath.

The Kurjey Lhakhang Temple complex consists of 3 major temples and surrounding Chortens. The main temple was built in 1652 by Minjur Tempa, the then Penlop of Trongsa. The temple is said to house cave that contains imprint or Kurjey of Guru Padmasambhava. The second temple was built by the first King of Bhutan His Majesty Ugyen Wangchuk in 1900 and the third and last one was built under the patronage of the Queen Mother Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuk in the 1990’s. 108 Chortens were also built along around the temple complex. The Lakhag is also the final resting place of first three Kings of Bhutan. According to legend the Cypress tree located in front of the first temple is said to be an offshoot from the walking staff of Guru Rinpoche have a deep connection with the legend of Trenton Pema Lingpa.

Jambey lhakhang

Jambay Lhakhang was built by King Srongsen Gampo of Tibet in 659 AD. The temple was blessed by Guru Rimpoche during his visit to Bumthang. It is said that Guru Rimpoche was the one who brought Buddhism to Bhutan. It was renovated by Sindhu Raja after Guru Rimpoche restored his life with his magical powers. Many believe that there is a natural lake under the temple in which Guru Rimpoche took refuge on several occasions.

After Jambey Lhakhang, that was it for the day’s sightseeing, so back to the guest house and time to update the blog and edit piccies.  Stuck about 90 pics on Facebook which took about 3 hours to upload – but it worked in the end!!  My guide unexpectedly joined me for dinner this evening, so had to try and think of more conversation!   We’ve already exhausted Angry Birds and Manchester United, so I’m starting to run out of topics.  Fortunately, I’m on vacation and I’m the client this time (hurray!) so i don’t have to worry about keeping my guide entertained – its all about ME for 2 weeks!  Huzzah to that.

Day 4: Bhutan, we need to have a serious talk.  Just what are your intentions towards me?