Sarah's Not Failin' Pailin! (89km)
Whoo-hoo!! I am SO proud of myself!! I've just completed the most INSANE bike ride I've ever done - cycling from Battambang to Pailin on some of the most spectacularly bad "roads" I've ever seen or had the pleasure to experience. In the tour blurb, it says fairly neutrally that "the road in sections is in bad condition" - err... I would estimate that "section" to have been about 85km long!! Imagine cycling over corrugated iron for 89km, except not as predictable or comfortable and with huge potholes and rocks to avoid, and you start to get the picture. Add to that some additional local hazards such as herds of cows with no sense of direction (I almost got wiped out being squashed between a calf and a moped!), chickens, dogs, various vehicles stuck in the mud and bridges with big gaps of bridge missing, and that's getting close!! Whilst not fearing for my life, I actually quite enjoyed it - especially the sense of accomplishment in finishing. At dinner last night, Damian was describing the ride and said that it was really tough and that half of his last tour group didnt finish. When asked by Steve how many of us he thought would complete the ride, Damian reckoned 8 out of the 12, 10 max. Cos I've got on the bus a couple of times, I knew he had me in mind, so I thought "I'll bloody well show you, you bugger!". So I did! I didn't know if I was going to be able to finish or not but I was determined to give it my best shot and NOT be the first person to crack and get on the bus! And I think everyone had the same idea as all 12 of us finished!!! And with no major wipe-outs either - despite the last 20km being over rolling hills, so having to keep your bike under control whilst going downhill over the same rocky and bumpy road, all the time your arms absolutely burning like hell and your wrists completely knackered!! I think that was the worst bit for me - sure, my legs were getting tired by the end of the day, but my arms and wrists were screaming in agony, but I was determined not to give up without a fight! (mind you, if I think I'm suffering now, just wait til the morning! I dont think I'm going to have the strength to brush my teeth!). We were actually really lucky with the weather as it was fairly cloudy for most of the day, so we didn't have to endure the sun beating down on us as ferociously as it has on previous days. Also the rain last night kept the dust down (unlike a couple of days ago) but did make for some suitably entertaining mud patches to slither through!

So, not many pictures from today cos the main thing I was looking at was the patch of road 6ft ahead of my bike! Apparently the scenery was quite nice in places! Another interesting tidbit about the area we were riding through is that is used to be until quite recently (ie the last 10yrs or so) bandit country and not at all safe to be in. Obviously its now completely safe (kinda), but Damian did warn us not to stray off the roads as there are still many unexploded landmines in the area, laid by the Khmer Rouge in the late 70's (ostensibly to keep the Thai's from invading but probably more likely to keep the Cambodians from trying to escape across the border). Also, there are still reputed to be some Khmer Rouge living their communist ideals up in the mountains - fortunately, we didnt run into any (unlike a previous tour one time!). Other highlights of the day for me was my first (and probably last!) fried locust at one of the rest stops - although I made the schoolboy error of looking at it before putting it in my mouth (I'm sure it winked at me and waved its antennae), it was actually quite tasty! Really smoky and savoury and - surprise, surprise, tasted like chicken! Looking more closely at the platter of fried insects, I was then thankful that I'd picked out a locust and not a cockroach - you do need to draw the line somewhere on the insect minging-ness index - and cockroaches are it! (although I guess it would be a novel way of pest control back in my apt in Manhattan!). We also saw a number of monks in their bright orange robes lining up for their alms so at least I took a couple of pics. Also we got a great group shot at the temple gates coming into Pailin - everyone was tired but extremely happy to have completed the ride!!

So am now in the hotel in Pailin, having enjoyed a very well deserved shower and I can feel myself stiffening up by the minute! Dinner is a bit earlier tonight at 7pm - just as well cos I'm not sure I'll be able to keep awake for much longer. YEY ME!!!!