Ho Chi Minh City to Trah Vinh (47km)

Up bright and early at 6am, ready for 7.30am transfer out of Saigon. Breakfast was buffet style and good, with breads, fruit, cereal, fried rice and noodles. Started off in the vans to transfer a couple hours out of Ho Chi Minh City to Cai Be - the gateway to the Mekong Delta. HCMC is a big sprawling city with a population of 8 million, 90% of whom seemed to be on mopeds! Was very interesting driving out of the city, seeing the juxtaposition of both the traditional way of life next to the new developments and huge building projects. Also fun were the goldfish farms,, which I think win the prize for the most entertaining way to use the middle bit of ground in between the two sides of the road! After about hour and half, we stopped for a bathroom break and coffee stop at this stunning place with an amazing water garden and beautiful outhouses, full of very ornate carved mahogany furniture - much better than your Little Chef or roadside diner!

After about another hour, we arrived at our starting destination of Cai Be and all piled out of the vans, readying ourselves to start riding. Got introduced to my steel pony, a 3500 Trek Mountain Bike and Mr Phat fitted my pedals and cleat system (managing, fortunately, to get my shoe out of the pedal that I'd got it stuck in, right after I bought it!). Also fitted my gel saddle cover (a VERY good buy!) and little under-the-seat saddle bag, and I was ready for the off! It took me a while to get used to the cleats and clips on my shoes on a bike that's not fixed to the ground and I think it probably only is a matter of time before I end up in a heap on the floor! But, other than a few wobbles, it was pretty comfortable and didnt take me long to get the hang of it - just as well, really, cos you needed to have all your concentration to avoid the many road hazards and craziness in front of you!! I guess in Manhattan you dont often have to swerve to avoid chickens, coconuts and stray dogs!

The ride was simply breathtaking as it led us right into the heart of rural Mekong, pedalling through narrow roads and lanes, past banana plantations, fields of sugarcane, and through lush green landscapes of the delta. It was everything i'd imagined it to be, but in even more vivid colour (and smell!). Another thing that you hear about, but you really do need to experience it firsthand to understand, is just how friendly and smiley absolutely everyone is. It really is incredible, but as you cycle past, people smile and say hello as if seeing you is the best thing that's ever happened to them! You shout a greeting back too and can't help smiling also, wondering just how come everyone looks so happy to see you. What a wonderful national psyche to have. Cycling past one school, this big hoard of kids ran up to the road and starting waving and shouting "hello!" - honestly, when I come back to New York, I shall be devastated if I dont get the same treatment! One kid was really cute, walking home carrying this adult sized briefcase that was almost as big as he was!

A section of biking took us off road onto gravel and dirt lanes, weaving through hamlets, across rivers and through quite thick vegetation. We crossed the mighty Mekong several times today, in a variety of ferries - some rather more rickety than others!! After about 50km, a final ferry crossing brought us into to Tra Vinh, where we cycled through some verdant green rice paddies, before entering the town, a pretty tree lined place with many ethnic Khmers. Alas, we didnt quite beat the rain, so got completely soaked by the regular downpour at 4pm, but it was warm and I smelt quite bad by that stage, so I didnt mind too much! Arrived at our hotel for the night, the Cuu Long Hotel, at just before 5pm, so enough time to shower (yey!), change and blog before dinner. Which is where I'm off to now!

All in all, an amazing first day - I didnt manage to get squashed or hurt myself too badly (almost spraining my ankle stumbling on the step in the lobby of the hotel first thing this morning doesnt count!), and I think the legs held up pretty well. Saw some amazing scenery and a constant stream of rural vignettes (alas, didnt take as many pics as I'dve liked but I would get left behind if i did!) and the people were so charming and friendly. If its like this for the whole 2 weeks, I'm in for an absolutely unforgettable experience.