Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Penguin frenzy!!
Up bright and early to go back to Trelew airport and collect the car. On road heading towards Punto Tombo by 8.45am, so great start to the day! Had about an hour on normal roads, before my first real taste of "ripio" road driving - very basic gravel roads which provide an ..err.. interesting driving experience. More surfing at times, than driving, i think!! Another rather curious side-effect of ripio road driving is its ability to induce an almost instant somnolence in both driver and passenger. Dubbed the Sleepiness Index, it tended to kick in about 5km after setting off, and build to an almost irresistable eye-closing crescendo within minutes. The only known cure we discovered was leaping out of the car at regular intervals for wildlife photo-ops! ("Gaunacos!!")

After about another hour of such excitement, we finally arrived at P.Tombo - the largest colony of breeding Magellanic penguins in the world. It was absolutely amazing - there were penguins absolutely everywhere! There were no fences, only a trail which you were asked to keep to - and you quite literally were stumbling over penguins everywhere! Close?!! Wow. Sam almost got his head bitten off when he was lying down taking pics of this penguin - literally inches away from his face and camera! The highlight of the day (and i think a highlight, full stop) was being lucky enough to see a penguin actually hatch and emerge (very large pink foot first) from its shell, carefully tended by its penguin mum. It was just incredible and was a real privilege to be there and to watch.

Oh boyo! Tea and history in Gaiman
Spent about 3hrs there, taking pics and just enjoying how close we were able to get to these incredible animals, before it was time to head off and drive to Puerto Madryn where we were staying the night. Again, more high SI-driving on the ripio roads, before heading towards Gaiman, where we visited an authentic Welsh tea-shop (Ty Nain) for tea and cakes. Is the oldest surviving building in Gaimain, built in 1870 and still run by the descendants of the original pioneers. Was yummy - 6 or 7 different types of cake (including a very tasty lemon tart!) with bread and cheese plus 2 massive pots of tea! We rolled back in the car, very very full for the final leg to P.Madryn (did not help with the Sleepiness Index!). Were staying in Hostel Gaulicho - very cool place, good value and with free wireless internet. After checking in (unbelievably, in room 8 again!! For about the 5th time in a row!!) , went out for supper along the seafront (was getting flashbacks to Margate!) at a restaurant called Cacceros. After a little help deciphering the menu, Sam had the local specialty of Arroz con Marisco (an Argentinian version of paella) and i had some rather tasty black cod (yes - not steak!) before heading back to the hostel for a spot of photo-uploading, blogging and into our respective bunkbeds! I snagged the bottom one this time as i'd incurred a bunkbed descent injury on our last hostel visit - well, you try getting out of a top bunk with no ladder, first thing in the morning, without skinning your shins!!

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