Hats off to Hatton!

Sigiriya - Kandy - Hatton

A long travel day today, transferring from Sigiriya onto the next part of our trip, Tea Trails in Hatton.  We were up reasonably early, ready for breakfast at 7am before Kingsley picked us up at 8am.  Breakfast was a very yummy Eggs benedict – with proper English bacon and beans on the side!! Delish!   We sat outside as we ate and watched one of the staff very slowly and methodically clean the infinity pool – very relaxing.  As we got the buggy from our room to the lobby, the road was scattered with four peacocks – with their tail feathers resplendent, noisily showing off to the local peahens!  (btw, peacocks sound just like cats meowing – v strange!).

Kandy train station

So our plan today was to drive from Sigiriya to Kandy, then ManpanionTM and I would catch the train from Kandy to Hatton, where our hotel for the next three nights is located.  We left just after 8am, to make sure we got to Kandy in plenty of time for our 12.30pm train (spoiler alert: it was not on time!).  it took us about 3 hours, stopping en route to do a bit of spice shopping at a local spice producer.  Apparently Sri Lanka – aside from tea – is also noted for its cinnamon and nutmeg production.  So, of course, I bought a bagful of various spices and unguents – the nutmeg was the biggest I’d ever seen!  Not the tiny little shriveled up nuts you see back home – but instead big fat shiny ones – at least twice the size and plump!  Can’t wait to make something with those!!  Perhaps a lovely rice pudding?

We also stopped at a little roadside food place to buy some supplies for the journey - I wasn't entirely convinced as it was all fried - but the fried chicken sandwich we had was actually delicious!  I also got a completely British white bread cheese sandwich as back-up - that was also yummy in its floppily anemic way!  Obviously because of the colonial history, there are elements of Britishness everywhere - from the baked beans and bacon at breakfast, to the national obsession with cricket, to the school uniforms for the kids.  Most of the signs have English as well as the local Sinha dialect, so even though its very clear we are somewhere exotic, there are flourishes of familiarity.  And - of course - the tea. 

The train finally rolled up about a half hour late - Kingsley was driving with our baggage to Hatton while we took the train, so he hopped off the train after he got us seated (quite literally - someone was in our seats to start with, so it took a few minutes to sort that out - by which time the train had started moving, so he had to jump for it!!).  And I can totally understand why someone had tried to pinch our seats - they were the best ones in the whole train!! Right at the very end of the train, in front of large panoramic windows that gave us a completely unimpeded, picture perfect view as we chugged (and bounced, rather alarmingly!) our way through the gorgeous Sri Lankan countryside. 

Anyone for tea?

Love the signage

Hurrah!  The train finally arrives

PERFECT seats

Krusty was also enjoying the view

though he seemed to get a little nostalgic...

 

As did Oscar P...

Nothing to do but relax and chill....

The trip took about 2hrs and Kingsley was there 5 mins after we arrived to drive the final 30mins to our hotel, Ceylon Tea Trails.

Ceylon Tea Trails consists of five old colonial bungalows , built between 1890 and 1939, which have been converted into luxurious accommodation.  Each bungalow comes with its own Manager, Chef and Butler and is decorated with period furnishings, so each has its own distinct character.  http://www.resplendentceylon.com/teatrails/bungalows/  Here's the description from their website:

View of the verandah, overlooking the lake. 

Sweeping lawns and swimming pools. English gardens filled with roses, dew filled agapanthus and spring crocus. Tea on the lawn with Dundee cake, scones, strawberries and cream or lunch alfresco by the pool, a summerhouse to meditate in or watch the forest wagtail flit from tree to tree. Tennis, swimming, croquet and classic board games all come together for a leisurely lifestyle. Without a doubt, the best bungalows in Sri Lanka.

Life in all its variety is played out in the living rooms. Pale tones and natural wood create equilibrium in the midst of a hectic life. Each bungalow has many sitting areas, old wooden desks to write postcards with real stamps and not just email. Silk cushions, regency stripped footstools, huge spaces warmed by roaring log fires. Mulled wine or the finest spirits, a drink that thrills the heart. Old books, old prints, antique maps, rooms filled with flowers in vibrant colours. Wide verandahs. Time for relaxing on cushioned cane chairs waited on hand and foot by the discreet butler. Long expanses of slate to spend long afternoons with a gimlet, white wine and cucumber sandwiches or freshly roasted cashews, your butler at your beck and call. Watch the lake and study the garden bees, while reading Somerset Maugham. Spacious bedrooms, a private space to unwind after a long trek.

We were staying in the Summerville bungalow - the others had equally Game of Thronesy sounding names (Norwood, Dunkeld and Castlereigh, for example).  Our room was called the Garnet room - and was cute enough but it had a rather unfortunate damp odor and feel to it.  Its perhaps not surprising, given the bungalow is slap bang in the middle of a rainforest, but it was a bit of a shame.   They changed the linens and, after dinner, lit the fireplace, so that helped a bit.  They did offer to move us to a different bungalow but, by that stage, ManpanionTM had developed a bit of a man crush on our chef - a wunderkind in the kitchen who had created some seriously spectacular food for dinner!  Its totally worth putting up with a bit of a damp smell for such good eats and a spectacular view!!

 We'd arrived just after 3pm, so we relaxed for a bit before it was time for afternoon tea.  Very yummy indeed - and the tea was just perfect.  Not too strong and piping hot - just how I like it!!

Very romantical!

After tea, it was time for a nap and to chill out.  It was raining again, so that put the kibosh on any plans to do anything more active outside, so we gave in to sloth for the afternoon.  Dinner was at 7.30pm, so we finally roused ourselves and went to the lounge where our butler served us champagne and little samosa canapés.  Its a hard life. 

Dinner was excellent and, afterwards, we played a hand of cards (I lost) before finally waddling off to bed.  Tomorrow we have a tour round a tea factory on the books, so that should be fun - and, other than that, absolutely nothing else planned.  Perfecto.  This place rocks.

The scones and clotted cream were SOOOOO good!

 

Beautiful table arrangement at dinner