Day 7: Things I have learned while horse-riding in the Peruvian Andes

Today’s official itinerary:

Day 2: Soraypampo

After an early breakfast we hike out for 4hours in the area surrounding the lodge, visiting Humantay Lake.  We return to the lodge for lunch, after which you have the choice to enjoy an afternoon hike, horseback ride or simply relax in the outdoor Jacuzzi.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner and overnight at Salkantay Lodge.  Optional horseback ride.

Lisa and Paddy ready for the day's hike

So today’s hike was shorter than the one yesterday, so it was easier in that respect – however, it was steadily uphill the whole way as we were hiking up to Humantay Lake so it got to working out different parts of my legs than the ones that had been totally destroyed the day before!

As it was just a half day’s hike today (presumably to give us time to recover from yesterday and prepare for tomorrow), we had a fairly leisurely start this morning with breakfast at 7.30am, ready to leave at 8.30am.  Breakfast is a buffet affair (all the other meals are served) and there’s always a choice of fresh fruit, cereal, meats & cheeses, yoghurt and eggs made to order.  That plus coffee, fruit juices and tea.  Plenty to get you fueled up ready for the day ahead.  There were also snacks laid out in the lounge area downstairs for you to take – a selection of nuts and dried fruits, plus bananas and various boiled sweets, choccys and cookies. 

Local kids waving us off at the start of our hike

At 8.30am we met up at the front of the lodge, found our boots (we had to take them off at the door on arrival last night to prevent tracking mud and horse poo into the lodge), laced up and were ready for action!  Today’s hike was scheduled to take about two and a half hours up to the lake and then about an hour and a half back down, so it was much shorter and we would be home in time for lunch.

Owner of the land we were hiking on and his horses

And off up the mountain to harvest potatoes for the day

Doing my best North Face advert impersonation

The first bit was flat, walking out across the meadows that surrounded the lodge, then after about half an hour, we started up in a steady uphill rhythm, traversing up out of the valley, at one point passing the family who owned the lands we were trekking through who were heading off further up the mountain to harvest the potato crop.  It actually wasn’t too bad – the sun wasn’t beating down on our heads quite so intensely as yesterday which really helped a lot.  I think we may actually, really be starting to acclimatize to the altitude as well – or learning how to moderate our pace better to be able to sustain our breathing.  (actually I’ve realized that its just like running – as my coach Bill has said to me, when you get out of breath while running, its not because you’re unfit (yeah, right) its just that you are running at a pace that is too fast for you – same thing with trekking.  You’re out of breath?  You need to go slower). 

Lisa and I stretching out, mid-trail

The flora and fauna here have been as stunning as the scenery.  As we climbed up to the lake, we were lucky enough to see 2 Andean condors, circling and soaring high above us with their 12 ft wing span – absolutely amazing.  There are a lot of alpine plants that look quite similar to the plants we grew up with – there were dandelion type flowers, daisies, buttercups and snapdragons and also loads of bromeliads – the spiky plants (related to pineapples) that bloom only once in their lives and then die.  Bummer, really.  Its quite weird because they also “burn” themselves – not quite sure how, but they char their roots and stems so that the ash then provides fertilizer for the rest of the plant.  Quite ingenious, if a little freaky.

At some point on the upwards hike, I needed to use the outdoors ladies so found a suitable rock and did my business.  During the proceedings, I got photobombed by this young bull who decided to stroll right through my open air restroom.  If you ever need an incentive to get on with things and wrap up an outdoor pee quite quickly, an uninvited cow staring at you will do the job.  I’m not sure who was more startled – me or the bull.  I guess I must have left quite an impression though, because said quadruped then decided to follow us (ie me) for the next hour!  Almost all the way up to the lake, I had my very own bovine stalker until he finally got fed up at the last steep bit and wandered off (typical) but I guess it was for the best.

Weird bromeliad with the self-burnt roots

My new boyfriend

Valley and mountain view at our first snack stop

Still following us

Horse on a hillside

And, finally, after all the pre-amble, we were there!  We crested the final hill and suddenly, spread out before us, was this absolutely spectacular blue-green glacial lake.  It was breathtaking.  And bloody cold!  After we all ooh-ed and ah-ed over the lake for a bit, took photos and dipped our fingers into the water to check that yes, it really was fooking freezing, then Mark decided that he was going to brave it and take the waters!  Yep, at 70-years young, he stripped down to his skivvies and, with a bit of a fuss and quite an entourage watching/inexpertly videoing him, ran into the lake and plunged in!  I think Mark deserves all the credit in the world as his response to submerging himself into what must have been just-above freezing waters was “Crikey!”  Needless to say, that would not have been my Brit-phrase of choice had I been in that situation!   30 seconds later and he was back out, on shore, but massive props to him for having the balls that no-one else had to go right in – when I’m 70, I want to be just like him.

The beautiful glacial lake

Anyway, we spent about a half hour or so by the lake, soaking up the sunshine and enjoying our own little oasis of peace and tranquility.  But then it was time to pack up and start the downward hike back towards the lodge.  The path underfoot was very rocky the whole way down, so you really had to pay close attention to where you were putting your feet as one wrong step could result in a twisted ankle and game over!  The hiking poles really come into their own here, helping you control your speed and descent and provide an additional two points of stability.  So, after a steady hour and a half, we made it back down to the lodge without incident and were again met with cool, damp towels to refresh ourselves with and a mug of hot mint tea.  Again, perfect service!

Up close view of the glacier

Mark braves the cold and takes a dip.  We all
watch in awe.

the long walk back

We then had lunch and, according to the official itinerary, we had the afternoon “at leisure”.  Well, bugger that, I thought so instead I arranged to go on a 2hr horseback ride instead!   I met the horse chap at 2.30pm and it was just me and him.  He told me his name, which I couldn’t pronounce, so I asked him to repeat it.  After the third time he repeated it, I was too embarrassed to admit I still didn’t get it so I just then nodded and smiled.  So, off we went, heading back out into the valley, out the way we came in on foot the day before, but on a different trail. 

The lodge

We started by walking along the valley floor before then climbing up onto the mountain and joining a trail cut high up into the mountainside.  I love to ride on vacation when I get a chance – its such a great way to experience the countryside and I find it very meditative, the swaying of the horse’s motion, the clip clop of their hooves on the road.  I think I forgot, though, that horse riding is not just passive sitting on the back of the horse but actually involves a bit of work on the rider’s part, namely in the legs department!  My guide rode just like see in the movies – really confident and, when we broke out into a trot, he didn’t move from the saddle, but just continued to look very cool and nonchalant.  Me, on the other hand, not so much.  I learned that Peruvians don’t post their trot, unlike I’d been taught for English riding, so I was trying not to post the trot but not succeeding terribly well, so probably ended up with this horrific hybrid of controlled slight bouncing that I’m sure my horse, Qatar (I did not make that up), did not really appreciate.  

Not a bad view through the window of our room, eh?

But it was a lot of fun – we rode out for about an hour, enjoying the valley and mountain scenery before then turning round and riding back in!  The guide started me off slowly, just walking, then a bit of trotting before graduating to a gloriously easy canter and then, when I didn’t fall off with that, a no-holds barred full-on gallop!!   I think it was a gallop cos it was definitely faster than a canter, so I just held on for dear life to the pommel of my saddle and enjoyed the ride!  It was an absolute blast!!  My ass took a bit of a bashing (I’m sure I’ll be sore tomorrow) but it was well worth it and a fabulous way to round out the day. 

I got back to the lodge just after 4pm, so enough time to shower and change before a rather disappointing massage at 5pm.  The massage table was probably the most uncomfortable one I’ve ever been on and the therapist was not that great, so it probably didn’t do me any harm but wasn’t the therapeutic massage I’d been hoping for.  Ah well.  C’est la vie.

Giddy-up!

On the trail!

Qatar thinking deep thoughts

Then it was time for dinner and an impromptu Pisco Sour making demonstration (and tasting!) which was fun.  I then stayed up til about 10pm blogging (ah, the dedication to you, my blog watchers) before finally retiring for the evening and to get some good rest before the Big Day tomorrow.  It’s the one that I’ve been training for and worrying about since I booked this holiday – the hike up to the 15.000 ft Salkantay Pass!  Fingers crossed all goes well and I survive tomorrow intact!! 

Today’s scores on the doors:

Start time: 8.42am

Duration: 4hrs 1min

Distance: 3.54 mi

Avg heart rate: 106 (60%)

Max heart rate: 136 (76%)

Calories: 1163

Fat burn % of calories: 55% (whoo hoo)

Average speed: Captain Slow (0.9mph)

Maximum speed: 3.0 mph

Max.altitude: 14040 ft

Ascent: 1360 ft

Descent: 1360 ft