Wednesday, March 06, 2013

Day 2, Part 1: Horsepower Squared.

OMG.  Now that was just INSANELY fun.  I just spent the morning indulging in two of my favorite modes of transportation - horseback and helicopter! 


Just before leaving SF on Monday, I'd decided at the last minute Sunday night to book a couple of tours, so that I could make the most of my short time here in Maui.  I knew I wanted to try and go horse-riding but, unfortunately, the trip where you go into the Haleakala crater (the Sliding Sands Trail) was already booked out, so instead I started checking out other ranches on the island.  
And then I lucked out.  Instead of finding just a trail ride, I found a combo tour - horse ride first, then lunch, then a helicoptor tour of the West Maui coast.  Hell, YEAH.  It was Not Inexpensive, but I thought what the heck (cue rationalization again...) - and I'm certainly glad I did.  

The horse ride was phenomenal and the helicopter ride has to rank in the top 5 of my all time favorite travel memories.  It was completely spectacular and utterly jaw dropping.  I had lucked out (again) and had a front seat, up next to the pilot, so didnt have to look out over anyone's heads, but instead had a unobstructed view of some of the most incredibly natural beauty i've ever seen.   Rather than describe it, I'm going to let the pictures speak for themselves.   Our whole flight was also videoed from a camera mounted to the front of the helicopter, so I stumped up and bought the DVD of my actual flight so that you all, dear blogwatchers, can share, at least a little bit, in the beauty and majesty of this experience too.    Its still loading up to You Tube at the moment, so, as soon as its finished, I'll add the link and write a bit more description of where we went.  But here are some of the photos in the meantime - enjoy!!

Cliff-top riding at the Mendes Ranch

Pretty gazebo with kick-ass view of the ocean below
Walkway to the gazebo at the ranch 
Drunk horse (geddit??)
More horse than a lasagne from Findus.... our steeds await 
Oh come on, now.  This is just too ridiculously beautiful.
No - I'm not trying to be hip - that's apparently a traditional
 hand sign here (guess its the Hawaiian equivalent of a thumbs up!
Me...umm... in FULL control of my horse
Getting my best Project Runway pose on... 
Yeah.  Not sure what happened here.
I think we'd both had enough photos by this stage....
Though my horse was called Duke, I renamed
him Dylan cos there weren't much
going on between them ears.... 
Musing mount, pondering life's great mysteries....
Our trusty wrangler, Butch - born and raised on Maui
Rather interesting shaped plant...
Butch demonstrating how to get home
on a horse after a night in the bar...

From Horse Power to horsepower, all aboard the Black Beauty.....


Here comes my ride!!

I think this one was called the Wall of Tears due to all the waterfalls



Mother and baby humpback whale
(its the prime season for whales in Maui)




OMG.  Red John is a helicopter pilot!!

Tuesday, March 05, 2013

Day 2, Part 2: Stopping to smell the Lavender....
Girl, machine and berries in perfect harmony
By the time i'd finally left the heliport, it was only about 2pm, so plenty of time remaining to explore and make sure to get full value out of that pre-paid full tank of gas.  I had decided against attempting the Road to Hana drive - its one of the most spectacular roads in the world (think tropical Pacific Highway 1) but it takes a good couple of hours at least and, with just me driving, I wouldnt actually get to see much other than the whites of my knuckles gripping the steering wheel!  So, given my early-as-hell start tomorrow morning, I decided to stay closer to home and go and investigate the Lavender farm in Kula.

Never knowingly pass up a Retail Opportunity....
I've pretty much got the hang of the roads now (there's really only about 3 of them that you need to know about), so it was a very pleasant half hour drive along Route 37, the Haleakala highway.  Again, the weather was absolutely gorgeous (81 degrees - yeah!), so the top was down, the shades were on and life was good!!  En route to the lavender farm, I came across this very cute little farm shop, so (of course) wandered in and bought some delicious, juicy strawberries that had just been picked that day, some black raspberries (which I've never seen before but are also grown and packed locally in Kula) as well as a couple of jars of strawberry jam (one is strawberry and pepper - hmmm..., the other strawberry and pineapple) and a bottle of mango dressing, perfect for salads and fish.

Yep...there's a definite Cornish vibe here.....

After my little pit(ted fruit) stop, just another 5 mins drive or so brought me to the Ali'i Kula Lavender farm, where bushes of the fragrant lovelies are strewn about the hillside.  Although it wasn't quite the "sea of purple" that the guide book promised, strolling along the gravel paths that intertwined and meandered gently through the garden was still a very pleasant way to spend an hour or so.  I was also reassured to see that their French lavender bushes look identical to the one I have at home, so mine is doing fine (I thought mine was looking a bit crappy and almost grumpy -but i guess it IS French).

After wandering through the grounds, happily taking pictures of all the weird and wonderful flowers and bushes (I have NO idea what any of them are, i'm afraid!), the fine mist that had descended as I'd driven higher up the slopes to the farm was turning into a slightly more persistent rain, so I decided that was my cue to retire to the cafe and gift shop to try their famous lavender tea (the lavender coffee was a bit too much of a stretch).

It was perfectly nice, unoffensive and smelt sufficiently floral without you feeling like you were chugging back disinfectant but, what is more impressive, is that I managed to resist the accompanying lavender scone that also comes highly recommended (I guess reading this Wheat Belly book must be leaving its mark...).

Here are some of the pictures from the farm - loading these up, I just realized I didn't take a single picture of any lavender.  Ah well....








Don't know why this statue has coins
for eyes, though i do know where she
could get a spare set of eyeballs....



Table just begging to be sat at 
Cheeky birds getting jiggy with the toaster oven.... 
Lavender tea, a view and me
After a half hour of sitting quietly, sipping tea and looking out across the incredible vista below, it was almost 4pm, so time to hop back into the car and head back towards Kahului.  I'd decided to have a bit of a foodie tour for dinner, so chose the nearby Pa'ai as it had plenty of options and great places.   And - this time - I made sure to check the prices before I went in!!

I started off at the Pa'ai Fish Market restaurant - a place noted for their fish.  Apparently the local favorite is ono (white fleshed wahoo fish) and chips, but I didn't want to stuff myself silly at the first place, so instead I opted for the blackened ahi sashimi appetizer, which is also highly recommended.  While it wasn't as sublime as the trio of sashimi's I'd had the day before at Mama's, it also didn't cost me a complete fortune AND was still pretty bloody lovely, so a good start.

Next, came a digestif of finest Kona coffee at Anthony's Coffee Company - the best cup of joe this side of the island.  I actually had a bit of a headache and realized I'd had very little caffeine so far, so thought  that a quick slug of the good stuff would help set me right (unless I was already starting to undergo wheat withdrawal symptoms...).  It was, as described, smooth and delicious and so, revitalized, set off for my last stop - entree at the Moana Bakery and Cafe.  

Utterly yummy pumpkin, goat cheese, toasted
pepita and other stuff I can't remember salad
It had a tapas-style menu and everything was pretty healthy and sounded delicious, so in the end I plumped for a VERY tasty salad with creamy goat cheese (from Sonoma Valley, as it happens!), leafy stuff and some beautifully toasted pepitas which gave the whole dish a delightful crunch.  I also indulged in some delish red new potatoes, which had been roasted, drizzled with olive oil, lemon, pink sea salt and spring onions - after which i was stuffed, so no dessert for me tonight!!

And with that, it was time to waddle back to the car for the short drive home.  This time, I knew exactly which road to take, so it only took me about 15 mins til I was home, back in my library, and wondering whether it would be bad form to try on his collection of fez's.

Early night for me tonight(-ish) as I have to be up in the middle of the night tomorrow to go and drive up the side of a (possibly still active) volcano to watch the sun rise.  It should be absolutely spectacular....
Pineapple "shrub" - no alcohol, just the
 squeezy goodness of pineapple and water
Silence in The Library
This one is for all the Whovians out there.....

So, if at all possible, when I travel for pleasure, I like to try and stay at quirky or unusual places, rather than the run-of-the-mill chain hotels or places that just remind me of when I travel on business.  The place in Joshua Tree that i found on VRBO was an example of that perfect blend of character, comfort and convenience.

Anyway, after I'd made my impulsive decision in the United departure lounge at JFK to book a flight to Maui, the next day, after I'd got back to SF, it was time to find somewhere to stay.  Hmmm.... after a couple of hours of searching hotels, inns, B&Bs and guest houses, I was beginning to realize that Maui isn't actually all that cheap a destination and that my inexpensive flight might end up getting partnered with a very expensive hotel!!  But, not all was yet lost - while I'd already checked VRBO with no success (lots of cool places at reasonable prices - but none that were available in just under a month's time), I decided to check another website I'd read about a week or so beforehand, AirBnB.   Now I'm sure all you progressive, tecchie-types who love complicated coffee machines are now feeling very smug because you've known about it for years, but this was a whole new playground of cool and interesting places!  (they even have TREEHOUSES, for God's sake!!!  GOTTA HAVE ME SOME OF THAT!!).

It didn't take me long to come across the perfect place - close to the airport and convenient for exploring, very reasonably priced, AVAILABLE and - did I mention - damned cool?   Here's the original listing (better pics than mine): https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/786018

Sleeping in a library, for heaven's sake??  Just how fantastic is that?  Now, as well as Champagne Camping (patent pending), I think I've just invented another type - Book Camping!

Yes.  Its a bed.  In a library.
It belongs to a local artist who has a whole community going on here, with studios and interns and foreign film clubs and sculptures everywhere you look.   I met him earlier on and he seems a very nice chap (although he called me "Type A" when I described what I'm up to tomorrow - hurrumph).   Anyway, its very high on the Quirkiness Index and it goes right off the charts when you start to notice some of the more...err... interesting decorative elements of the room.  But I guess artists can decorate with whatever weird stuff they like and not have to worry about explaining it to anyone - its just art, innit?

Although, I don't know whether having an explanation for the eyeballs would be better or worse.

Anyway, here are some pics - I'll post up some more of the art compound tomorrow, after i've had a chance to explore and assuming these creepy dolls who are sitting on the shelves don't come alive at night and eat my face off.

Where's the Ambien??

Hard at Metaphysical Study.... or am I?
If Reverend Green or Colonel Mustard turn up with
some lead piping or a candlestick, I'm outta here....
Umm....anyone, anyone??
Why are there spiky shoes in a perspex case?
Yes.  They are what they look like (no pun intended).
But why??????  And who?????   And whaaaaa????
Pretending I'm not scared of spiders as I look
at this picture....
Say hello to the kitchen.
 "Your QuickFire Challenge today is.....
Self-Immolation As You Make The Tea"
Yes.  Its a giant rusty iron spider gate thing.
Also known as "Art"
Lights on, in the gathering dusk....
"do these lights make my bisected abdomen look big?"
Anyone for tea?  

Anyway, I'm about to turn the lights out.

I hope the Vashta Nerada don't get me.....